Escapar a Guatemala: March 2011

Welcome to Rio Dulce

After a 10 hour bus adventure, with a flat tire in the middle, I arrived in Rio Dulce, and was greeted by a smiling Biff at the Litegua station where he was waiting patiently. After grabbing a bite to eat, we boated down river to the Bum Bum Rum (pronounced Boom Boom Room in spanish) where Biff rents an apartment, along with several other cruisers (a lively bunch) who are living on their boats, or in adjacent rooms.

A morning boat ride up to Monkey bay offered up a glimpse of several howler monkeys rustling around in the tree tops announcing their presence with their signature "howl", which according to Biff, sounds like a bull being castrated... lovely.

Instead of being laughed at, or stared at, the monkeys simply expressed how they felt about me with their facial expression as shown in the photo above. At least they didn't show their feelings in a physical way (Tyler - you know what I speak of...).

Well, it's off to Quirigua, and to plan for the next adventure - down the river to Livingston...

Hasta Luego

Flat tire on the way to Rio Dulce

Cigar smoking Idol

Morning in Monkey Bay

Santa Maria De Jesus

So after almost a week of exploring the labryinth connecting the various churches, tiendas, restaurants, hotels, and more, practicing my spanish as I went, I decided to try a little exploration outside of the relative security of the known, and attempt taking a chicken bus to a little town - Santa Maria De Jesus - a small more traditional town about 45 minutes outside of Antigua to the South, on the flank of Volcan Agua and 500 meters above Antigua for an afternoon. I was feeling confident, and it was a nice day. So.... off I went in search of a little more adventurous solo exploration.

I started out in the main bus terminal next to the mercado, a very busy, dusty place, looking for which bus to take...my first test. So, I inquired (in spanish of course) and after some pointing and asking multiple people, a friendly man escorted me to the area I was looking for (which I would not have found otherwise...). I hopped in the microbus (minivan) and headed up the windy curvy mountain road crammed in the back between a little old Guatemalan lady and some school kids busy chatting away. The attendant collected $3.50 quetzales ($.50 US) from us, as we bounced and careened up the hill stuffing people in along the way to capacity.

A bit of history: Santa maria is the starting point for ascents up Volcan Agua, and was originally founded for the purpose of providing firewood for the town of Antigua. It is a small town, a little rough around the edges with a similar type of charm to it.

I disembarked with most passengers a couple of blocks from the central plaza and marketplace, and wandered through the town snapping photos, amid constant stares, and giggles from the local girls. Apparently I was the ONLY gringo in town on that particular day it seemed. It was hard not to feel self conscious with my camera strapped to me, walking the streets alone. It was at first a little disconcerting, and I felt a little extra on my guard. I headed up toward the trail to the volcano, not intending to hike any of it alone of course, but if you know me, you know that I always want to see what is around the next corner... So I arrived at the end of the road, where it turns into a trail - sort of- a litter strewn dirt path/gully with farms on either side winding up the mountain. I looked around, and decided, what the heck, I will just go up a little ways, just to see. OK, so I actually did only go up a little ways, and ran into a couple working in their farm. The man informed me (in spanish) that it is dangerous to hike by myself because of theft, etc, and wanted to know if he could be my guide and take me on his horse. I politely said no, that I was not going any further, and did not plan to hike the volcano. It was too late in the day anyway. So I headed back down the hill, wandered the streets some more, got stared at and laughed at some more, and headed down the hill back to Antigua. The people I talked to in town were very friendly, and it was a nice way to spend the afternoon. I think everyone should experience what it is like to be an outsider like that...it is sort of humbling.

Santa Maria De Jesus - central plaza

Comida Tipico

Leña

Calle Perro

???

Trail to Volcan Agua

The public laundry

Antigua Guatemala...First stop

First off, I am not a blogger. Well, not before this anyway. But, I finally gave in. It is just such an easy way to share information and photos with friends and family, and so I suppose I am now a blogger after all... Hope you enjoy...